Vialetti in erba
Park on grass all year without ruts, churn or wheel spin. Reinforced grass driveways stay green and load bearing in every season.
Why reinforcement matters here
A grass driveway fails in winter, not summer. Saturated ground has no bearing capacity, so tyres shear the turf and compact the root zone until the grass never recovers. IBRAN-X grids transfer the load to the sub-base below and leave the roots an uncompacted void to grow through, so the surface carries vehicles and stays alive.
Where this works well
At a glance
| Sub-base | 50-80mm MOT Type 1, or a free-draining sand and gravel blend on light soils |
|---|---|
| Infill | 70:30 sharp sand to screened topsoil rootzone, filled level, then seeded or turfed |
| Typical loading | Cars and light vans, once established |
| Permeability | Fully permeable. Normally treated as a SuDS component in a drainage strategy. |
| Design life | 25 years, subject to documented installation. |
| Material | 100% recycled polypropylene, made in the UK. |
How it goes in
- Mark out the area and excavate to the depth of your sub-base plus the grid depth plus your infill blinding.
- Lay a woven geotextile across the formation, lapping joins by at least 300mm. This stops the sub-base and the subsoil mixing.
- Lay and compact the sub-base: 50-80mm MOT Type 1, or a free-draining sand and gravel blend on light soils. Compact in layers rather than all at once.
- Blind the sub-base with a thin layer of grit sand and screed it level. This is what gives you a flat finished surface.
- Push-fit the grids together across the area, working from one edge. Cut around obstacles with a jigsaw or fine-tooth saw.
- Fill the cells: 70:30 sharp sand to screened topsoil rootzone, filled level, then seeded or turfed. Work the fill in with a stiff brush so no cell is left hollow.
- Check the finished level. Nothing should stand proud of the cell walls, and no cell should be left under-filled.
Most installations are straightforward groundwork. The grids themselves push-fit together and need no fixings, adhesive or specialist tools.
Which grid depth?
The 40mm general duty grid is specified for grass. The extra depth gives the root zone room to establish and knit under traffic, which is what keeps the surface alive as well as load bearing.
If you are between two options, take the heavier duty one. The cost difference across a typical project is small next to the cost of lifting and relaying a surface that was under-specified.
The mistake we see most often
Filling the cells with pure topsoil is the usual mistake. Topsoil compacts under traffic, holds water and suffocates the roots. The sand content is what keeps the rootzone open.
Common questions
Will the grid still be visible?
No. Once the grass establishes, the grid sits below the leaf canopy and is effectively invisible.
What soil should I fill the cells with?
A free-draining rootzone: roughly 70% sharp sand to 30% screened topsoil. Pure topsoil compacts and holds water.
How long before I can drive on it?
Allow one full growing season for the root mat to knit. Light occasional use is fine after about eight weeks.
Can I mow over the top?
Yes, provided the cells are filled level and the mower is set no lower than 40mm.
When is the best time to install?
Spring or early autumn, so the grass has a growing season to establish before it takes traffic or a hard frost.
Can I lay turf instead of seeding?
Yes, and it establishes faster. Fill the cells slightly below level so the turf sits flush rather than proud.
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